Uncover Italy's Culinary Treasures: A Journey Through Six Regional Delicacies
Italy's Culinary Heritage Recognized by UNESCO
Italy's culinary prowess has been officially acknowledged by UNESCO, which listed Italian cuisine as an intangible cultural heritage. This comes as no surprise to those familiar with the country's deep-rooted food culture, where every region boasts its own unique specialties. But what makes Italian cuisine so special? It's not just about the ingredients; it's the communal activity, the passion, and the pride that go into each dish.
In Italy, being a foodie is not limited to the elite. From construction workers discussing the perfect pairing of starters and wines to nonnas (grandmothers) raving about the best carrots at the local market, food is a universal language. And this is where the adventure begins, as we explore six regional delicacies that showcase the diversity and richness of Italian cuisine.
Star Baker, Verona
While panettone is a beloved Christmas treat in Britain, in Verona, it's all about pandoro. This soft, leavened cake is made in a star-shaped tin and lacks the dried fruit that some dislike. Instead, it's dusted with icing sugar to resemble the nearby alpine peaks. But pandoro is not new; it's the factory-made version of the older, round offella, which is made with sourdough matured for days, resulting in a denser crumb and a topping of almonds. Try it at Antica Offelleria Verona, where a 'mother' more than a century old is used in the baking process.
Prosperity Pulses, Umbria
Lentils are a must-have on New Year's Eve in Italy, symbolizing a prosperous year. The best lentils in the country, and perhaps the world, come from the high Castelluccio plain in southern Umbria, near Italy's pork capital, Norcia. Despite the 2016 earthquake that affected the region, tourists are still very welcome. Experience the magic of a sausage and lentil dinner at Granaro del Monte, close to Norcia's basilica, which finally reopened just over a month ago.
Dairy Delight, Puglia
Burrata, a soft cheese that feels luxurious, has become a staple in many menus. But its origins lie in the hard, thrifty lives of people near the ancient city of Andria in Puglia. In the early 1900s, the Bianchino brothers, unable to get their milk to market due to snow, mixed cream with scraps left from making mozzarella and stuffed them in a casing made of the same stretched-curd cheese. Today, Andria is known for its fresh burrata and cow's milk mozzarella, which are best enjoyed within 24 hours. Buy them at Caseificio Olanda, which has a 'milk museum' on the outskirts of Andria.
Bread of Heaven, Sardinia
Pane carasau, a crispy flatbread also called carta musica (manuscript paper), is one of Europe's oldest breads, with traces found in 3,000-year-old nuraghe (stone tower) excavations. It's double-cooked so that it keeps, and was carried by shepherds spending months in high summer pastures. Shards of pane carasau sprinkled with olive oil and sea salt are as moreish with drinks as any kettle chip – and much better for you. In Fonni, the highest town in Sardinia, the Sunalle bakery has made pane carasau for as long as anyone can remember. Panefratteria in Cagliari tops the flatbreads with tomato sauce, pecorino cheese, and a poached egg.
Onions that Won't Make You Cry, Calabria
Sweet red onions grown around the seaside town of Tropea date back millennia and were probably brought to Italy by the Phoenicians. But Calabria has made the cipolla rossa its own, claiming you can eat them raw like an apple. Their sweetness comes not from a high sugar content but a natural lack of pungent pyruvic acid. Fresh onions are available from May through summer at the Saturday market in Tropea. When you tire of them in salads and sandwiches, stew them with olive oil, salt, and a few chili flakes to make cipollata calabrese – for cucina povera (poverty cooking) that feels anything but.
Fish in a Barrel, Lombardy
Missoltini, a freshwater answer to anchovies, are produced on the shores of Lake Como. Agoni, a kind of shad, are cleaned, salted, hung to dry for 10 days, then packed in a barrel with bay leaves. They are traditionally eaten grilled with polenta, which modern palates may find rather strong and salty. I love them as an umami nugget in pasta or risotto recipes, or topping crisp crostini with honey and vinegar. Fishmonger and restaurant Da Ceko in Lecco does an excellent pumpkin salad with raisins and missoltini.
